Friday, August 7, 2009

last days in ecuador

wow, almost home.

Last half a week we spent in Misahuallí, a small rainforest village. It has a beach on the river where we spent a good bit of time relaxing and taking in our experiences. We visited the nearby village of Shiripono, where there is a huge sacred stone where once lay a anaconda with three heads. awesome. we sat on top of it and look at the sky, saw a rainbow. it was pretty magical. i felt very peaceful and happy. the last night in misahuallí, the night of the full moon, i went out on the beach at night. all alone on the amazon beach, i laid back in the sand and looked at the moon in her fullness. wow. i am so lucky to have the opportunities i have, and i am glad that i am aware enough to really appreciate them. life is magical.

we also visited Archidona, where we met up with some Germans Al met on our previous trip to Tena. We hiked into the jungle and spent the night at a shaman´s house. It was the most beautiful place we´ve been. in the amazon, alongside the andes. the sky was so brilliant. it was the night before the full moon and she shone so brightly, lit up the sky. incredible. we participated in a ceremony. it was purifying and cleansing. i look forward to sharing more.

we are now in otavalo again. we had a long day of travel yesterday. today we visited the neighboring weaving village of Peguche. We hiked up to the waterfalls there. we found a little cave-way where water flows when its higher. we crawled through it and sat by the river and a smaller falls for awhile. so peaceful. lovely.
then we came back to otavalo and ate some awesome pizza haha

tomorrow we are spending in otavalo, then traveling on to quito. Sunday in quito, then monday and tuesday are travel days. we get back to asheville greyhound station late tuesday night. I cant wait to see my megan and jaden waiting to pick us up!! it will be so wonderful to see their beautiful faces finally. then finally home to watauga county. yes!


the last few days in ecuador are amazing. i feel very full. content, happy, peaceful. so appreciative of my experience. i am so grateful for everyone´s support. life here has been quite the journey and i feel i have really got a lot out of it, and will continue to as i process my experiences further once i am home.

and just to let you know. a few days after i get home i am going to the outer banks for a week. i know i know, i am following up one vacation with another. haha. but then i will be back in watauga county working for awhile. i am going to be living in bethel and working for a year. i plan on going out west as soon as it works out, but not quite yet. but then again, life twists and turns in ways we can never forsee. and i am thankful for that. i am glad there is no straight path that i can see the end of. well, i guess there is for some people, but i am not one of those people.

sooner or later we will put up photos from our amazing journey. i will try and remember to post when here so yáll can know.

i am loving it here, but oh! how home sweet home is calling me.

Friday, July 31, 2009

last week in baños

This is our last week in Baños.

Wednesday I went canyoning with the two other WWOOFers on our farm! I climbed and repelled down the Chamana waterfalls on the edge of Baños. It was so much fun! The last one was about 40m high, so beautiful.

Today was our last day of farm work in Ecuador for this trip. We have been weeding this past week. Right after work I went and got a full body hot stone massage. It was incredible. After this I am going to go to the other natural hot baths, the ones at the bottom of a waterfall. This place is so amazing.

Tomorrow Al and I leave for Tena and Mishualli for a few days. They are in the Oriente, the Amazon. Then we will go back up to the Northern Highlands to visit the Otavalo area, including Peguche. Then Sunday in Quito and fly back to the States Monday, and on the bus ALL day Tuesdy. Soon we will be home. but we got a lot of fun to have here first. woot.

Monday, July 27, 2009

nueva luna, amazonia

Wow. Every week is better. Honestly.

Wednesday I was ill. I believe it was sun overexposure. After work I stayed in bed and slept for several hours. Thursday I was weak but better, and a better me by Friday. But Wednesday I missed bridge jumping. SAD! That would have been quite the experience. wednesday was the new moon. i spent a lot of time thinking and processing. i am in a new place now, better stronger happier. i feel more solid. i really feel myself growing. the new moon really was a transformative time for me. and is she ever beautiful here...i think the moon shines brighter here. but maybe it is just me glowing.

Thursday Al, our friend Sarah, and I went on a weaving tour in Salasaca, an indegenous community near Baños. Alonso Pilla and his family are one of few families that still use the traditional back strap loom. They do amazing work, so intricate. It is hard work. It takes two years to make a traditional poncho in this method, they use fine fiber. Alonso´s son taught me how and I got to use the back strap loom! It was an increadible experience to sit on the floor of this man´s house and weave the way these people have been for hundreds, thousands(?) of years.

Friday we (Al Sarah and I) went to Tena, a city in the jungle. It was so hot and humid. Jungle life is much more sultry. Saturday we went to Mishualli, a small lazy jungle village almost an hour from Tena. There we hung out on the beach of the Rio Napo. In the evening Al and I went for a private boat ride and an unexpected tour of a small indegenous community. A shaman cleansed our energy, it was cleansing and strengthening. then we had chicha in the kitchen with the women. Chicha is a fermented yucca drink that is traditionally chewed and spit out by women. Ours was mashed not chewed. It is very strengthening. Ours was 4 days old, at five or six it is alcoholic. It was strange to walk around and observe these people while they are living their daily lives. We kinda felt like we were making them specimens or something, but I am very appreciative of the experience. I learned a lot and had some experiences I will never forget.

Sunday we went to el mariposario, a butterfly garden where they study butterflies. We got to see butterflies at all four stages of development (eggs, larvae, chrysalis, and butterflies). It was really cool to see the stages of different species. The butterflies are so bright and delicate and amazing! We got to see the legendary blue morphos flying about. and the one that looks like owl eyes. a bright orange one landed on me and hung out with me for a bit.

and then! (I sound like an overexcited kid probably, but i guess i am) we went tubing down the Rio Napo! oh wow. it was really exhilirating. we stopped and climbed up to a waterfall and stood underneath it, then slid down the smooth rocks. it was so fun.

i have more to tell of all these experiences of course, but that will wait until i see you!

but life is grand. i am so loving this experience, it really gets better all the time.


right now our plan is to stay in baños at the farm until saturday morning. then we will return to tena and mishualli for a few more days for more adventures and beach time (the amazon rainforest is hypnotizing) Then midweek we will head back up the andes to the northern highlands, back to the otavalo area for a few days. Then sunday we will be in quito and we leave monday and arrive in asheville late on tuesday. i have a feeling the last two weeks will be the best yet.

Monday, July 20, 2009

Puyo, Amazonia

The past few days have been incredible. This past weekend Al and I went to Puyo with two of the WWOOFers from the Yunguilla farm. Puyo is a city in the Amazon rainforest about 1.5 hours from Baños. The road between Baños and Puyo is known as La Avenida de Las Cascadas, the avenue of waterfalls (more or less) because there are so many waterfalls along the way. so beautiful. In Puyo, we went to El Paseo de Los Monos, a monkey rescue. We spent a few hours playing with monkeys. Best time of my life. The monkeys were free to play, no cages or anything. There were ropes for swinging and places to climb, and of course trees and outdoors. They would swing on the rope and propel off of us. They jumped all over us, played with us, bit our piercings, tried to steal our stuff. A few even wre snuggly. The capuchins were especially mischevious, they can undo zippers. They stole my favorite chapstick and some toilet paper I had stashed in my pocket. Sometimes they bite, but not too hard. I am so envious of the way they can move and play. I wish I could move like that so much. But I do my best! There were wooley monkeys, a few chapuchins, spider monkeys, squirell monkeys and probably some others. At the Paseo we went for a walk through the forest while it poured, totally appropriate I suppose. But it was really warm.
After that we went on a guided tour about an indegenous tribe´s lifestyle. The guide told us about different medicinal and some culinary uses of the various plants we passed as we walked through the forest. We also sat in a traditional housing hut and she told us about some of their customs. It was really interesting. Al and I bought some Dragon´s blood (a tree sap) for bug bites.

Then the next day (Sunday) we went to an Orchid rescue. It was amazing! It is family created and operated. Because so much rainforest is destroyed every day, this family has decided to rescue orchid specimens and species. This also saves other species. Some orchids are only pollinated by one type of insect, and that insect only pollinates that type of orchid, so there is a very delicate and unique equilibrium created. We saw lots of pictures of incredible insects and then walked for about 3 hours through the forest learning about orchids and other species. Some orchids are TINY. Tello, our guide, had a 10x magnifying glass so we could see some of the tiniest species. They are so intricate and colorful. It was so amazing. Really magical. We also saw the biggest spiders I have ever seen in my life. They were amazing. Beautiful and just insane. The butterflies are really amazing too.

Then today after work on the farm, Al and I went with the four WWOOFers from Yunguilla and rented bikes. We rode down from Baños to Rio Verde (on the way to Puyo). We stopped at two waterfalls. At the first we took a cable car thing across the gorge, to and over the waterfall. It was really high and so beautiful. On the other side we got out and there was a swing over the edge into the forest. We played on that for a while and then someone who was working on a building there came and pulled me so I went way far out. It was so fun and exhilirating. I was laughing and yelling. The second waterfall is El Pailon del Diablo, the Devil´s Cauldron. We got there too late to cross the bridge completely but we got on the bridge. It is very powerful and amazing. Though the water is ferocious, it made me calm. I was struck with awe and respect. I had some personal moments with the waterfall.
After the waterfalls we got a ride in a truck back to Baños. I just called my parents to wish them Happy Aniversary!
These past few days have been the best so far I think. So much fun.

This place is sooooo beautiful. But I also look forward to returning to the beauty of my Appalachian Mountains.

Monday, July 13, 2009

pictures fail

fuck internet.

we can{t get pictures to load. i guess we gotta wait until the states.

sorry folks


its beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tungurahua Tea Room

Paradise. We have arrived.
Al and I just finished our first day of work at our new farm in Baños, we arrived last night. It is beyond what I imagined, like what I´ve been dreaming of creating someday come to life, in reality. We are on the edge of town, convenient but not in the midst. We have a room with two beds and some storage. The communal kitchen, shower, and bathroom are all outdoors. There are orange trees, vegetables, and lots of flowers. There is a path through the garden that comes to a spirit-circle around a fire pit for walking meditation. We´ve met Carol, she seems like a very interesting, kind, and wise woman. She doesn´t work with us though. Mario is the foreman more or less and speaks no english. He is a really cool guy too it seems.

We begin everyday by taking the four dogs on a hike for about an hour. There is a german shepherd Coco, two shepherd mixes Lady and Camilla, and a young St. Bernard Ali. They are really fun. And it is not just a walk, but a serious hike through the beautiful wilderness here. Today we followed a river that runs down from the volcano, crossing it several times. Then we jogged most of the way back. It was exhilirating and a great way to start the day. Then we return and have some tea and get to work. We alternate who cooks, and they begin at 11 so we all have lunch at noon. Then we have an hour for siesta or reading and then work until 3. It is much more chill than the other farm.
Today we cleared brush mostly. There are two other WWOOFers here, Sarah and Megan. This place has really good energy. I think I am going to get a lot out of this experience.


Volcanos here are gods and goddesses. Tungurahua is one of the very few goddesses, I feel this is appropriate for my experience here. She was married to Cotopaxi, and their child is Pinchincha (near Quito). She had an affair with Chimborazo (near Riobamba). Chimborazo and Cotopaxi battled so fiercly that they created the Ingas (I think is the name) some mountains around here. This is in contrast to the Virgen of the Santa Agua (Baños de Santa Agua), the Catholic image. Her miracles are portrayed on the Cathedral walls. So we got the Christian virgen and the pagan whore. Awesome.

I am very glad this farm is second. It would have been very difficult to go from this speed to the more intense work load in Yunguilla, where we worked a lot harder for more hours a day. It was nice to be isolated in Yunguilla, especially at that point in our trip. But now I am ready to be close to town, but still in the paradise of the farm.

chao!

Friday, July 10, 2009

traveling in between farms

Hello world. I am currently in Riobamba.
While we were in Yunguilla we spent one weekend there getting to know the community. There was a program put on to celebrate a new part of the school, so the kids put on two plays and three dances. One play was Cinderella. Then there was a dance. It started with live music by Gonzalo and another man (Gonzalo is the man we work with at the farm) Lots of older couples danced. After that there was music from an ipod, the hip music and the old people left and the young people danced. We had a great time.
We became friends with the four other WWOOFers with whom we shared living space and work. They plan to visit us in Baños while we are there and we will take a weekend trip to Puyo, at the end of the jungle. That is planned for next weekend. We also became good friends with another worker from Colombia named Pedro. We are both sad to leave him. It is good we didn´t stay longer or we would have become more attached and it would be more difficult to leave. I really want to go back to Yunguilla someday. It is just beautiful, and I love the lifestyle. I feel it is my speed.


Al and I left our first farm in Yunguilla on Wednesday and went to San Antonio for a day. We went to La Mitad Del Mundo, where the equator was measured for sure. We saw lots of cool bugs at the insectarium and saw a show at the planetarium. San Antonio is kinda sketch and gross so we left there to come to Riobamba via Quito. To get anywhere it seems you have to go to Quito first. We had to go south to Quito to get north to Otavalo, and then stop in Quito to get a bus to Riobamba also. We were planning on going on La Nariz Del Diablo train ride today but it was sold out so we are trying for Sunday. Then we will go to our next farm near Baños. While in Riobamba we are taking it easy and relaxing. We are both excited about the train ride though, supposed to be scary. I believe we get to ride on the roof. sweet.
Our hostel here is kinda gross, but it is cheap, so that is ok. I will never take for granted toilet seats or toilet paper ever again.


Al is trying to post some pictures on the facebook today or tomorrow, so look for those. You should be able to see them if you are my facebook friend.


So you know the "mud flad girl" image, silhoutte of a woman? Well those are here to but the women are more vuluptous. I love it! haha. Women here are really sexualized to sell things though. Everywhere you look you can see a scantily clad woman offering you a beer, or an ice cream, or phone service, or anything. Way more than in the states, and a lot less clothes. So that really sucks.


I am feeling better about traveling now, we are getting the hang of things better. I can´t wait for Baños. We have good weekend plans and also want to explore some closer attractions after work during the week sometimes. There is a natural reserve I really want to check out, and so many amazing waterfalls. I am very excited. While I of course miss home, I am really enjoying myself here too.


love to yáll. (which reminds me, I can´t wait to hear those southern mountain accents, oh sweetness)

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Otavalo

hey yall
I am in Otavalo this weekend. it is beautiful.
Al and I leave this farm in Yunguilla on Wednesday and will travel and arrive at the second on next weekend. I will be closer to the internet there thankfully. oh, and the internet here is really frustrating.

I love farmwork. I love laboring under the sun and working my body hard. I love sweating and breathing heavy. Yes!

I think my people are waiting on me as usual, so I gotta run. I will actually try to type a good blog entry relatively soon.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Yunguilla

Hola Amigos!
Estoy en Yunguilla. I love the country side and the small town. Working in the sun all day is great for me. I have been able to shed the stress of the city this past week. I can breathe deeply for the first time in Ecuador. I am loving speaking spanish and it comes more naturally and flows better every day. I have so much inside of me. I can´t write much more because I spent all of my money on the phone, but I wanted to write an entry saying ´hola, I am alive and well, doing much better´

right now i am actually in san antonio, el mitad del mundo. we came for pizza with a friend-worker from the farm, pedro.

Yunguilla is great and i am enjoying participating in the community.

Al and I are living in a casa with 3 other WWOOFers right now and we are having a good time. We are well and send our love!

I will write more as I am able.

LOVES!

Monday, June 22, 2009

phase 2

going to farm in a little bit. i don´t know when we will have internet access next. we will be there for two weeks. working 7-3 mon-fri. the bathroom will be done in about a week i hear, so until then we get to use nature. i am not sure about the set up. i am excited and apprehensive. i am glad for the second phase of our journey though.

check out facebook photos on my account and al´s account.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

fotos y hoy

so damn blogger takes a looong time to load pictures, so i am going to use facebook. my facebook user name thing is Michal JD so you can find me and look at pictures there. i will try to put some up here though. sorry about that.

Today Al and I went to an art museum. It was pretty cool.
We climbed the towers of the Basillica Cathedral. It was amazing. and really high!

I have been told the first week is the hardest, I hope that is the case. I feel like I am where I am not supposed to be. I guess that is the case. I know it is good to venture out, but it surely isn´t easy. Especially the way Al and I are going about it. But we are gonna gain a lot. I am glad I am here, I just have to force myself to remember that. I really miss my Boone folk. Of course I miss my family, but I am used to not seeing them as often. I miss my Megan. I miss my Megan. sigh.

I am not much for writing more right now. I am kinda solemn.

Al and I, fierce




This is me testing a photo upload. Also giving you a picture of me and Al. This was Pride, the weekend before we left

Saturday, June 20, 2009

everyday surely is an adventure.
we started this morning laying in hammocks reading. Al studied Spanish while I read about quantum particle and 2012. haha. I love it. The sun was wonderful. From the rooftop terrace we saw a market below so went down to investigate. It was indegenous people selling their goods. I am amazed by the beauty of the crafts here.

On the way back to the hostel, we were accosted by a man trying to sell us candy. He kept blocking me and would not let me pass. Then he grabbed my arm and was being forceful. I brushed him off and walked away unharmed. We have also been followed a little bit by creepy men. We are having some tough encounters but so far no real damage has come of them.

We are engaging more in being careful about what we do, where we go, and really what we consume. We are definitely learning every day.
I can also tell my Spanish is becoming more comfortable and coming more naturally everyday. thank goddess. ha

We have spent a lot of time walking and exploring the city. I have seen a lot of socialist, communist, and anarchist graffiti. Also a good deal of feminist graffiti, mujeres de la frontera. its awesome and refreshing.

Today we had lebanese food for lunch. I had falafel. haha. it tasted ecuadorian.

We got new roommates this morning. They are two girls from San Francisco who are also going to WWOOF. They are really nice. Then this evening we met another housemate who is also WWOOFing. It turs out she is working on the farm where we are going on Monday. She has raved about it. She will be there for another week. She is staying with a family whereas Al and I are going to stay in the farmhouse. I really can´t wait until we get to the farm. I think it will be a better phase of our journey. I need that connection with the earth. not the pollution burning my eyes. I need to encounter mountain dirt, not be accosted by aggressive and creepy men.
The farm is on a big hill-mountain and we will be on the farmhouse right below it. the house where the family lives is a 30 to 45 minute walk. We will eat breakfast on our own I suppose., then work on the farm. Eat lunch on the farm. and I think we will eat dinner with the family. I am glad we will be walking so much in the beautiful countryside.
We have walked a whole lot in the city. Our hostel is up a really steep street. Solano. Oh, there is a street here called Jorge Washington. haha. It is really interesting to see the cultural influences, especially from the States.


So I was going to post pictures but I can´t because there is no USB connection on this computer. Only floppy disk and CD hahh. I will try on another tomorrow I reckon


LOVES TO YOU!!!

Friday, June 19, 2009

awakening

we are definitely not in boone baby.
Yesterday was our first full day in Ecuador, and in Quito. What a day. We are staying at a cute hostel with an awesome roof terrace. We are staying in a room with four beds. there is a communal bath and kitchen. We are enjoying the stay, though of course a private room may be better.

So we want to explore the city right?! Well we saw the Simon Bolivar memorial and a beautiful cathedral. We walked around the Old City. and got robbed. great. on the first day. Al´s bag was snatched, but luckily some police saw what was happening. They captured an accomplice but not the man with her bag. After three hours and a lot of emotions, Al´s bag was returned to us. She got everything back except some cash, her memory cards for her camera, a sheet we printed out with ´gay Quito´information, and Jaden´s contact information. I understand the first two, but the second two are kinda strange. So, sorry about that Jaden. Obviously it was a harsh awakening to the fact that we are in a huge city and we are not city savvy. We are learning more every day though. I am so amazed that we got Al´s bag back. It was because the police held the accomplice captive until the other man finally agreed to meet an officer somewhere unknown to us and return Al´s belongings. This was on the condition that we didn´t press charges, fine by us. The police here seem to be more effective because they negotiate.

Today we went to the TeleferiQo. It is like a sky tram thing that goes way up the mountainside behind Quito. We got to see an aerial view of Quito and the surrounding mountains. It was incredible. Quito is so huge. It goes on for miles. The elevation up there was really high and we had to move slowly. It was also pretty cold. I fear we may have neglected to pack warm enough clothing. We will be able to get some here though if need be.

We have had some amazing food. We had ensalada de fruta y crema (fruit and crema salad) for breakfast. And some amazing vegetarian dishes for lunch in La Mariscal Sucre. We also tried a house specialty drink last night that was not so successful. We felt bad to leave it mostly full when we left, but at least we tried. It was a warm beverage that tasted like it was pretty much only eggs. ugh. We couldn´t manage it. but the juice is amazing

We had planned on leaving this morning for the farm, but they are finishing some restoration on the farmhouse so we are going to go to the farm on Monday. I wish it was sooner, but we will have a good time here.

I just prefer the country to the city. My eyes have been bothering me, especially in the evenings. I think it is due to the pollution. Also probably the sun at this elevation.

Oh, funny thing. At the restaurant where we had breakfast this morning I went to use the bathroom. I was waiting for the woman to exit the stall and as she did she looked at me and told me where the men´s restroom was. I just kinda looked at her and said ok, and proceeded to enter the stall anyway. She kinda whispered ´´oh´´ to herself and went on. I found it funny. Al noticed that I have been getting a lot of strange looks because of my pants, because I wear men´s jeans. There are a lot of tight pants here for women. On top of the mountain today we saw a woman in stilletos! it was ridiculous. There were also some really hungry dogs up there and we wonder how they got up there. hmm. poor things.

I am going to try to post some pictures later today or tomorrow. hopefully that will work. my camera is not very good quality, but luckily Al´s is. though now she has a smaller SD card since she had to buy a new one to replace the really nice ones she had.


loves!

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Arrived in Ecuador!

We are here! We are checked into our hotel for the night and it has internet access. Wow, already the adventure. Thank you so much to Jaden and Megan for bringing us to Asheville. We ended up staying at some sketch hotel where the door didn´t lock. We set up a booby trap, pretty entertaining. The bus ride was really long, interesting but rather uneventful. We left about 9 am on Tuesday and arrived in Miami about 7 am on Wednesday. Then we took a taxi to the airport where we waited around until our flight left at 5 pm. When we got on the airplane we had to wear face masks the whole time which was freaky. but the plane was really nice and we got a small glass of wine for free, so that was sweet. we arrived in Quito about 8¨30 local time. I thought Quito was the same time as Boone, but it is not. It is an hour ahead. The airport was overwhelming. We had to go through customs-stuff and condense our bags. We were bombarded with people trying to take us in their taxi. We weren´t really sure what was going on, but we got help to make hotel reservations at a place that is relatively cheap but not too sketchy, and get a taxi ride to it. probably overpaid a bit but that is ok, especially on the first night.
we are going to get another hotel first thing in the morning for tomorrow night. then Friday morning we will head to the first farm.

i have had a lot of time to think. and have a lot to think about.

Monday, June 15, 2009

travel information

Hey y'all. I figure I'd start with the basic travel information and our projected plans. We are actually leaving! Wow.

TO ECUADOR

BUS

T 6/16 9 am Leave Asheville NC ses0215

3:30 pm Leave Charleston SC ses0119

6:20 pm Leave Savannah GA gli0513

W 6/17 6:45 am Arrive Miami FL

PLANE

W 6/17 17:10 Leave Miami, FL flight XL517, Economy Q

20:20 Arrive Quito, Ecuador

FROM ECUADOR

PLANE

M 8/10 8:20 Leave Quito, flight XL516

13:25 Arrive Miami

BUS

M 8/10 9:20 pm Leave Miami gli0534

T 8/11 6:30 am Leave Jacksonville FL gli1096

6:15 pm Leave Columbia SC ses0116

9:30 pm Arrive Asheville NC





FARMS

6/19-7/8

Los Manantiales, Organic Blooming

nearby community: Yunguilla, population:300, 3km away

closest telephone is in Calacali, 8 km

closest internet café is in San Antonio, 13km (“mitad del mundo” –“center of the world”)

located between 2 natural reserves, the “Reserva Geobotanica del Puluhua” and “Reserva Maquipucuna” on the western slopes of Western Andean Mountains on the Equator. 384 hectare farm

35 km northwest of Quito, about 2000-3100 meters about sea level, in cloud forest region


7/11-8/1

Tungurahua Tea Room

10 minute walk from Baños

20 minute walk to town, longer coming back (also bus and taxi), with internet cafes and international phone calls



WEEKEND ITENERARY

On weekends between 6/19 and 7/11 we will be traveling around the Northern Highlands region of Ecuador and around Quito. We have not set dates for any of the following locations, and these travel destinations may change in accordance with local festivals, weather, or the advice of locals. However, this list should give you a taste of the places we may explore.

La Mitad del Mundo (“The Middle of the World”): This is the place where Charles-Marie de La Condamine made the measurements in 1736 showing that this was indeed the ecuatorial line. Here are museums, a planetarium, tours, the Rumicucho archaeological site (built around 500 BC by the Quitu-Cara culture for ceremonies during the equinoxes), exhibits of astronomical geography, and water and energy demonstrations. It is 22km north of Quito near the village of San Antonio.

Reserva Geobotanica Pululahua: About 4km northwest of La Mitad del Mundo, this is a volcanic crater of the extinct Pululahua. With a variety of microclimates, the vegetation on the volcanic slopes is rampant and diverse. We will hike though the crater’s trails to see the variety of flowers and bird species (we’ll take pictures!) and stay in the nearby colorful village of Calacalí.

Sangolquí: This is Quito’s closest indigenous market, and is about 20km southeast of Quito’s old town. The nearby Hostería La Carriona is a 200-yr-old colonial hacienda with a cobbled courtyard and flower-filled gardens.

Cayambe and Oyacachi: The snow-dusted peaks of Cayambe are about 64km north of Quito along the Panamericana. Cayambe is considered Ecuador’s flower capital, and offers homemade cheese and archaeological sites dating as far back as 1300BC. Shops in the surrounding rolling farmland offer hot confectionary treats, colorful courtyards, and indulgent community-run hot springs, especially in the nearby town of Oyacachi.

Between 7/11 and 8/1 our weekends will be spent in the Central Highlands of Ecuador.

Baños to Puyo: We will take mountain bikes throu the Andean cloud forest, past more than 15 stunning waterfalls and into the tropical lowlands on “La Ruta de las Cascadas”, or the “Highway of the Waterfalls.” The entire bike ride is 61km, mostly downhill, with stops in small villages at the edge of the Amazon. Most people make it about 18km to Rio Negro (there are busses available to transport us back to Baños at any village) but we are hoping to make it to the mellow jungle town of Puyo.

Quilotoa Loop: This is the loop that connects most of the traditional highland villages and markets of the Andes. Most of the inhabitants of the villages are indigenous. We will hike and bus between the dirt roads of Pujili, Tigua, Zumbahua, Laguna Quilotoa, Chugchilan, Sigchos, Isinlivi, and Saquisili, and hopefully pick up some Quechua on the way.

The end of our journey will be a week (8/1 to 8/10) of travel between the Central Highlands, taking the train down the hair-raising descent of La Nariz del Diablo, or the Devil’s Nose, from the eclectic town of Riobamba to Sibambe. While close to the Southern Highlands, we will visit Ingapirca, Ecuador’s best Inca ruins and home to some of the Inca’s finest mortarless stonework. From Ingapirca, we will travel north to Quito to explore museums, galleries, and Quito’s Old Town. Lastly, we will travel to Otavalo, home of the colorful and world-famous crafts market, picking up all of our woven gifts for family and friends (that’s you!) before heading back to the airport in Quito.

We will miss you all, take plenty of photos, write and call as often as possible, and bring back stories of our adventures in South America.

Lots of love,

Al and Michal




I am full of excitement and anticipation. of course I am also nervous. I hurt my foot dancing at High Country Pride this weekend, so that sucks, but nothing is holding me back from this amazing adventure.


And don't worry, Al and I got each other's backs for sure. We are gonna take care of each other and support one another in this amazing chapter in our lives. I am so glad to have Al in my life.


Ecuador, here we come!!!


Michal